The paint shop is going to shoot my bumper after I prep it.
Can someone please advise me on the preparation? Is it gel coat? Should I use a liquid stripper as other post's describe?
Should it be left on the car for support when prepping?
I have to prepare it for primer, then remove for delivery to paint shop.
Will the spider webs come out with paint removal?
Anything I need to know for removal and attachment other then what the manuals show?
Thanks very much,
Boatman

If it's the stock bumper, it's urethane. No Gel coat on that. A stripper will work, but you can't let it sit! And don't let it get on the bare bumper. Stubborn sections of paint should be taken off by hand with sandpaper. Your painter should know to put a flex agent in the paint and there are flexible parts primers made as well. Just ask him if he intends to use those products. A lot of times the cracking is in the finish, but keep in mind these bumpers are basically rubber which suffers from age(like us, we crack and wrinkle too!) To test the bumper after you have stripped it, wipe it off with a rag dampened with a pre-cleaner or laquer thinner. The cracks won't evaporate as quickly and you'll know where they are.
On the chance the bumper has been or needs to be replaced, there is a "flexi-glass" bumper. In my opinion, it's a good replacement that doesn't distort like the urethane, makes for a good fit and God forbid, it will take a light hit. I would still recommend the flex agent to finish it though.Hope this helps.

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Dave - Thanks for info. It is original. I will use utmost care to get ready. If it will not come out right, I will go for the flex-fit. Appreciate the info.

defintely flex agents should be added to all paint put on flexible parts on cars. My 2003 cavalier bumper , which is flexible had to be touched up and the body shop definitely but flex agents in the paint . i asked them about it, so make sure you do. It prevents cracks in the paint due to flexible parts. If not put in the bumper paint will defintely crack again. check out the link below to see one on ebay that didn't have flex in the paint on the bumpers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2467449641&category=6168

|UPDATED|3/20/2004 10:47:17 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I have started, and educated myself a little more after reading these post's. There is a site you can go to for paint and body work of any kind, and Len Stuart will answer your questions on his forum.
It is: autobodystore.com. He is not necessarily selling anything, but he and others from body and paint shops will answer anything you throw at them.
I did purchase urethane stripper. It does not attack the urethane and sticks to vertical surfaces. Does the job. After strip and wash down, I used scotch pads on a hard rubber sanding block. Next was working my way down to sandpaper grades.
All done so far, and next is taking it to the paint pro and see what he says about progress and getting ready for primer and finish.

After straining and squeezing my big hands up in the left and right upper areas to get the speed nuts off the inside perimeter braces, I looked up the old 1991 files from Corvette Fever and an article on bumper removal.
When light are popped up, they took the surround from around the headlights, and were able to get into these corners without any stress or strain.
I will try that on re-assemble. Got the bumper stripped with urethane stripper, used scotch brite pads, and now going to #400. Down to the yellow (primer)?
Thanks for all info input.

The yellow is the bumper itself. The primer is gone. Sand gently. Too aggressive will cause heat and the urathane to "ball up" and cause problems. If this happens you can sand gently to straighten it back out. Once the sanding is done, don't use just any primer. Make sure the primer is compatable with the flex bumper and the paint that you are going to use. You may need to check with the paint supplier. After a few coats of primer, sand with the 400, and go up to 1200 to get a really good job. The secret to great paint is great prep.

Ken Styer

Ken - Thanks for latest updates. Every piece of info I get helps toward the final finish. There was spider webbing before I started. It was in the paint, came right off as soon as the urethane stripper hit it.
Project on hold for about 2 weeks now, I live in south Florida, and many Yankees coming down for scuba and golf, so will be tied up with boat, etc. Plus a lot of cold Bud and Millers.

Before you put the bumper away for a couple of weeks, make sure all the stripper residue is completely flushed from it. The solvents in the primer can re-activate it and cause blistering.

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Boatman, are you trying to say you have work to do, or are getting paid to hang with new friends?

Ken Styer

Dave - Thanks for tip, I did wash it down with soap and water.