This one is unique...

 I figured out that my horns weren't connected so I reconnected the wires. Cool, horn honks when button is depressed..as designed. All is well...until I went for a drive.

 It all started when I depressed my left turn signal at a light. HONK ! WTF !

 SO I keep going, lane change left turn signal..HONK..WTF!

 I continue on...

 I get on a road with a gradual, stretching right turn. HONK...HONK...HONK...WTF !  So I pull over and disconnect the horns.  I know I'm grounding out someplace. Any idea if it's the turn signal switch or the button at the top?

 Jim

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Lifetime Member #73

The Money Pit.... and my niece

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Jim,

I've been trouble shooting the same problem for the past 8 months and finally this week I think I found the problem. Before I tell you what it is, rest assured that I checked everything from the horns to the steering column and then inside the column. I've replaced all the horn parts in the column and still the same thing, only now mine is a constant horn even when the turn signal is not on. But mine started like yours.

Ok, I pulled the column apart again (6th time) and looked at the turn signal. I think that there is a short where the two pieces attach. In fact if I push the turn signal lever forward towards the engine the horn goes off. If I let it return to the standard position it comes back on. Now that I know where the problem is, I was going to get back in there sometime this week and see if it can be fixed without buying a new turn signal assembly (70-80 bucks).

I'll let you know if I'm able to fix it.

Glenn

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Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

The hot wire (12v) for the horn button is shorting out inside the column. You will probably wind up having to pull the turn sig. assy out to find it, but you should be able to see a bare wire. It is touching as you move the turn sig. lever, but I doubt it is the turn sig. switch itself causing the problem. I'll check my wiring diag. and see if I can help a little more.

OK........I'm an idiot! According to the wiring diagram, the horn feed(ground side) does go thru the turn sig. switch. You should look for a black wire coming into the switch on circuit #28. This is the ground side of the horn relay. With the t-sig. switch out, or at least pulled up a bit, you should be able to find this wire. This is where the problem will be. It appears that the left front t-sig.(light blue wire) is the next wire over from that, so look for something that would connect the two circuits for some reason. It could be a terminal loose in the switch, or just a bare place on the wires themselves. Hopefully, you can see an obvious problem and correct it without having to spend the $$$ for a new switch. Hope this helps! Adams' Apple38524.7984953704

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

 

 Thanks guys...at least I have something to do 4th of July weekend while I'm home...

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Lifetime Member #73

The Money Pit.... and my niece

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Jim,   I found out what my problem was. It was related to the key buzzer. Just before I had my horn problem - the key buzzer would stay on after the key was removed. I just disconnected the buzzer under the dash and didn't think any more about it. If you have key buzzer that doesn't work this could also be your problem. Last night I went back into the column and pulled the turn signal assembly out to look more closely at where the short might be. The only thing that I could see that looked out of place was the two small copper connectors under the turn signal assembly that are used for the key buzzer. Both of them were bent over and I susspected that they were shorting the horn on the bottom of the spring/plunger in the turn assembly. After I pulled the connectors out of the column for a look I found that this is where my key buzzer problem was too, as the piece was broken.

Anyway long story short - I left the key buzzer thing out, and guess what? Every thing works correctly!! Except the key buzzer (who cares). Now I have working turn signals, flashers, and horn without a problem. I suggest that if your going to pull the turn signal assembly out that you get a curved tool that will fit into the column that can be used to pry the plate and spring down to incert the C clamp when you re-install. It's a real P.I.T.A.!

Good luck.

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Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust