I had a scraping noise while on the last road trip so I pulled the front wheels and checked my calipers and pads. The pads are like new, but the thin double metal shims between the pad backing plate and the pistons have come unglued and are falling out (scraping on the rotor hub). I slid them out of one side, and checked the other side. They haven't come loose there yet, but are slowly relocating themselves.

I assume these are anti-rattle items, so will it hurt anything or cause brake performance problems if I just leave them out? They were all squashed and funky looking, so I would imagine they were doing more harm than good. I hate to buy new pads just for those shim plates.

Answering my own question

 

I left 'em out for now and they don't squeal or chatter, and I see you can buy new sets of shims pretty cheap. I'll just order a set and glue them in next chance I get - or if no noise, leave them out.  I can't remember ever using them on any other vehicles, so it surprised me when they showed up

Craig:

      Nice car - and I must say that I have some serious garage envy!  If my garage was just a little biiger, I could get a lift in there too

[QUOTE=jgoglick]

Craig:

      Nice car - and I must say that I have some serious garage envy!  If my garage was just a little biiger, I could get a lift in there too

[/QUOTE]

I got a Direct Lift Pro-Park 7  (www.gregsmithequipment.com) because it is slightly shorter and narrower than most, by design. I have a ceiling height of a couple inches short of ten feet. If I park my extended cab, short box Chevy Silverado on it, I can't stand under it because of the ceiling, but a can stoop or sit on a stool (I might even get an old Lazy-Boy) and it makes oil changes and stuff easy. I just built a couple of "cross-ramps" for my garden tractor and load it from the side. Then I remove the cross-ramps so I can access my blades for removal and sharpening. I'll post a shot or two on that photo site.

I'll be you could get one to fit, and for under two grand, it's a pretty good deal. It's all I need.

I just got back from Bowling Green, and have a picture of ours in the same spot yours is sitting. Neat place!

[QUOTE=Craigi] I'll just order a set and glue them in next chance I get - or if no noise, leave them out.

[/QUOTE]

Don't use any "glue" or sticky pookie on your pads!! It will stick them to the pistons, and create a situation whereby the pistons will "pump" even more air into the brake system than they do already!!
If your new pads have a metal backing "shim", just make sure it is actually riveted to the steel part of the pad, and not just hanging with fold-over clips, or glue. Otherwise, just leave them off. You'll save yourself future aggrevation!

______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]
Don't use any "glue" or sticky pookie on your pads!! It will stick them to the pistons, and create a situation whereby the pistons will "pump" even more air into the brake system than they do already!!
If your new pads have a metal backing "shim", just make sure it is actually riveted to the steel part of the pad, and not just hanging with fold-over clips, or glue. Otherwise, just leave them off. You'll save yourself future aggrevation![/QUOTE]

Thanks Joel. I can't see any difference without the shims on the one side, and will likely take them out of the other side next chance I get, since they were also glued on and starting to slip. The pads are almost unworn, so I won't be replacing them for a while. I noticed that the rotors have never been off (rivets still there) and never turned. They are a bit glazed, but show almost no wear. I have .001 runout on the passenger side, and .005 on the drivers, so I anticipate I'll have them turned on the car by next season, tho I get no pulsing or obvious pumping from the one side.

I think I really cooked the glue off those this past weekend on some of those Kentucky roads. We pushed her pretty hard with the rest of the "convoy". Fun. Fun. Fun.

By the way, these shims were not riveted or tabbed. They consisted of two paper thin metal pieces glued together and glued to the backing plate. They were all deformed, squashed, misaligned and falling out. What a crappy design.

Sure wish we could make Pigeon Forge with all of you, but it looks like we'll have to wait until next year. Just too much going on this summer. Darn!

 

Man....it sux to have too much fun, don't it!

______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

The only reason for the shims is to prevent vibration, and stop noise.  If you don't have the noise, you don't need the shims.   If you do have the noise there are other ways to stop it.   But not stickup to the pistons, just a Joel said.

craigi,

Thanks for the Greg Smith Equipment link. They look very reasonably priced. I think I might go ahead and invest in one of those. It sure would beat laying on the floor to work on the car or taking it to the repair shop just so they can get the money for working on the car. I can see some big savings in one of those. I think the ceiling in my garage is just a few inches over 10 feet so that would work out well.

[QUOTE=75BrownC3]

craigi,

Thanks for the Greg Smith Equipment link. They look very reasonably priced. I think I might go ahead and invest in one of those. It sure would beat laying on the floor to work on the car or taking it to the repair shop just so they can get the money for working on the car. I can see some big savings in one of those. I think the ceiling in my garage is just a few inches over 10 feet so that would work out well.

[/QUOTE]

Great. You won't regret it. I use mine every day for one thing or another. Up...down.....up......down......up