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Topic: Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (1/20)
 4/30/07 11:38am
jgoglickLifetime Member
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Huntsville, AL - USA

Vette(s):
1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!


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This might be long, but here goes...

The rear wheels on the vette are tilting inward at the top. I've read that this is likely caused by an old, weak leaf spring - correct? There isn't any play in the wheel bearings. I'm thinking about getting a new mono fiberglass spring. My question is - are the springs the same for all C3's? The reason is that my vette is a 71, but I have a sneaky suspicion that it's sitting on a 80 - 82 frame. reason's for my suspicion: the car is an original 4 speed (verified by VIN), but the trans crossmember is removable, and it looks factory (doen't look like a Bubba job). the car also has an 80-82 rear end in it. So when I go to buy parts, do I buy for an 80-82 or a 71? I'm guessing 80 - 82 for the spring, but I'mm looking for advice. Is there any way to tell what year frame is there other than looking at the VIN (since I'll probably never have the body off the car to ever look).....
jgoglick2007-05-01 18:56:13
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (2/20)
 4/30/07 12:33pm
suncountryLifetime Member
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Moses Lake, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II


Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134

Is your spring flat or does it still have its arch? If it is flat or near flat than it is the spring. Check your strut rod cam and see if it has rotated or the narrow section of the cam is to the outside (narrow= bolt center to cam edge). The cam can slip and rotate causing the tire to tilt inward. I have had it happen to me before. Not sure on the spring difference though. I think it has more to do with weight distribution which would require different spring rates for different years. There was a post ealier this month on spring arch.
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (3/20)
 4/30/07 3:18pm
stingrayjim jrLifetime Member
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SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 auto

1978 L82 4speed

1994 LT1 6speed


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You might also look at the bushings on the strut rods.... the rubber might be gone on them, allowing the strut rod to mis-allign itself.... there is two bushings per side, one on the shock mount, the other under the rear housing where the before mentioned(by Suncountry) strut rod bolt resides.  Usually if your spring is "shot", it will be flat across or even slightly "W" shaped...and the car itself will kinda look like it is ready to launch into orbit(the back end will look lower than the front).... almost forgot,  it  may also be worth looking into the trailing arm bushings too... if they are "shot" then the arm will "twist" a little also.  Who knew there could be soooooo many bushings to look at back there?......stingrayjim2007-04-30 15:22:40

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (4/20)
 4/30/07 6:34pm
bytor
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Simpsonville, SC - USA

Vette(s):
1978 25th. Silver Anniversary Edition 350 L-82 Stock


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I have the same problem. 
 
I have since discovered that someone has installed a 2 1/4" 7 leaf spring.  It's supposed to be a 2 1/2" 9 leaf spring.  I am going to replace it with a steel spring from Muskegon brake.  http://www.bettercart.com/v4/go?s=vettedesk
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (5/20)
 4/30/07 7:42pm
mkapp7879
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78-82s used a 2 1/2" wide spring. When the factory installed the gymkhana suspension with the 7 (really 6) leaf spring they used an 1/8" shim in front of and in back of the spring.

Bytor, do you have a rear stabilizer? If so, the 7 leaf is correct, you have the heavy duty gymkhana suspension. The first pic is what the 2 1/4" spring in the 2 1/2" carrier looks like with the shim. Second pic shows the spring arch on a 12K mile 79. Believe it or not I drove this home 1000 miles and found this, the bolt and shim had fallen out. Who knows how long this was like this!

mkapp78792007-04-30 20:01:55
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (6/20)
 4/30/07 8:17pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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You can check the VIN # on the frame to see what year it is...Ya may have to do a little CLEANIN to see it, but it's there!
It's on the driver side, rear, in front of the body mount, on the TOP of the frame rail. With a bit of cleaning, and a mirror, you should be able to see it.


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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (7/20)
 4/30/07 9:42pm
Gale Banks 80Lifetime Member
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  I doubt that somebody went to the trouble of installing a 80-82 Rear End in an earlier Frame. Dose the Crosmember have Two Holes in it for the Exhaust to pass through or Dose the Exhaust Pass Under it?  I think Your Hunch that the car has a Later frame will prove to be true. Richard...

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (8/20)
 5/1/07 5:06am
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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[QUOTE=Gale Banks 80]   I doubt that somebody went to the trouble of installing a 80-82 Rear End in an earlier Frame...[/QUOTE]


I'd have to agree...I've done that, and it ain't no pik-a-nick! Major surgery involved, and very easily detected. I did it on a '77, using an '81 diff and all the brackets...what a friggin PAIN!

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (9/20)
 5/1/07 5:12am
bytor
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Simpsonville, SC - USA

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1978 25th. Silver Anniversary Edition 350 L-82 Stock


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Mkapp7879, thanks for the insight.    I do have the rear stabilizer and my spring does have the 2 shims.  Your 2nd. picture looks like mine, no arch in the spring.  Is this normal?  

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (10/20)
 5/1/07 6:24am
jgoglickLifetime Member
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Huntsville, AL - USA

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1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!


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Thanks for all the responses and suggestions! I'll get under there this weekend and see what I can see. Hey, worst case I just need to buy MORE parts. I know I'm completely shocked that a 35 year old car needs parts. Shocked, i tell you... Rolling%20On%20The%20Floor%20Laughing jgoglick2007-05-01 06:25:32
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (11/20)
 5/1/07 2:38pm
mkapp7879
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[QUOTE=bytor]

Mkapp7879, thanks for the insight.    I do have the rear stabilizer and my spring does have the 2 shims.  Your 2nd. picture looks like mine, no arch in the spring.  Is this normal?  

[/QUOTE] All 3 of my gymkhana equipted look like the pic. I took some measurements today. With 255-60 tires inflated to 30 lbs. I got 28 1/4" from the ground to the fender lip on both the white 79(the pic above) and the 78SA. The black 79 measured 28 3/4", probably because it's spent every winter for 23 years up on jacks.
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (12/20)
 5/1/07 6:55pm
jgoglickLifetime Member
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Huntsville, AL - USA

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1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!


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Here's a couple pictures. Anybody see anything that would make the wheels tilt in on both sides?







(modified larger images to links)Adams' Apple2007-05-01 19:55:32
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (13/20)
 5/1/07 7:23pm
Jeffm
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Sebago Lake, ME - USA

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1978 Silver Anniversary L82 4spd (M21) Red Leather. Pace Car is in the hands of a new caretaker.


Joined: 2/15/2007
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As some have already pointed out, check the strut rods. My 78 looked just like that, tires wearing big time on the inside edges. Had the strut cams adjusted and it sits real nice now. How long it will stay, I don't know, only put about 30 miles on it since I got it back. Also, my spring looks a lot flater than yours, and back of car sits nice. I measured from floor to ends and center and only have about 7/8 inch arch. 
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (14/20)
 5/1/07 7:30pm
bytor
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Simpsonville, SC - USA

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Strange, I have 27 1/2" on the drivers side and 28 1/4" on the passenger side. 
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (15/20)
 5/1/07 8:00pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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Maybe the rear alignment is off from pulling a trailer!! I see the trailer hitch parts there!!
John, from the looks of the pics, and your description, I think you just need an alignment. If the bushings in the strut rods are worn/bad, then you'll need to have them replaced, first.
I drove the '74 for a long time with the tops of the wheels in at the top, before I finally got under there, and adjusted the strut rod/camber bolts. I just "eyeballed" it, but that got the job done.

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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (16/20)
 5/2/07 10:44am
jgoglickLifetime Member
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Huntsville, AL - USA

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1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!


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Thanks for the help everyone. Clap
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (17/20)
 5/2/07 8:32pm
BKVETTE
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Calhoun City, MS - USA

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1977 Black T-Top


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I had the same problem awhile back, wearing out tires in a short period. Replaced my strut rods because the bushings were worn out and couldn't get a good adjustment. Replaced it with the threaded type from midamerica. Part number 602-896 on page 180.
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (18/20)
 5/3/07 7:12pm
smscorvette
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You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires.  Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom.  You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level.  The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps.  The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom.  This allows you to take the measurement on the rim and not the tire.  You have to make an adjustment and then roll the car back and forth.  This settles the suspension.  Then check with the level.  I got this tip from a corvette suspension manual awhile back.
Steve
 


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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (19/20)
 5/3/07 9:02pm
mkapp7879
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[QUOTE=smscorvette]You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires.  Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom.  You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level.  The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps.  The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom. 
Steve[/QUOTE] Good tip. I tried this last week using masking tape to attach 1/2" sockets onto a 2' level on end. I like the idea of two different size blocks, tho. Maybe the bottom socket could be a 3/8" drive. Was able to eyeball the gap and came out close enough, about the 1/4".
 
Years ago I had a wooden level that I cut down to check front end camber on my GTO. I was always messing with the suspension on it and got tired of paying for alignments. In fact, after one alignment I checked with my level and it was off, both sides. Took it to another place and they confirmed it. This was back in the days before computer equipment.
mkapp78792007-05-03 21:04:19
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Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES (20/20)
 5/3/07 9:15pm
jgoglickLifetime Member
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Huntsville, AL - USA

Vette(s):
1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!


Joined: 11/15/2003
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[QUOTE=smscorvette]You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires.  Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom.  You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level.  The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps.  The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom.  This allows you to take the measurement on the rim and not the tire.  You have to make an adjustment and then roll the car back and forth.  This settles the suspension.  Then check with the level.  I got this tip from a corvette suspension manual awhile back.
Steve
 
[/QUOTE]
 
Good tip Steve - thanks! Thumbs%20Up
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