My 4 speed manual does not shift into 3rd gear, so around Thanksgiving I will park it for the winter and put it on jack stands. I want to remove the transmission and rebuild it during the winter. What is required to remove the transmission? Adams' Apple2009-11-29 21:53:48

 not too hard to remove, general hand tools , a transmission jack or a good roller jack, if you are gonna replace the clutch assembly you will need a clutch alignment tool.You will need an extra set of hands and about a case of budlite,,make sure you take note of how it comes apart, and the set up of your shifter linkage, the members here will walk you thru it,, good luck rd

basically as rick said... its not tooo overly complicated, basically you'll have to remove the driveshaft(trust me on that, tried leavinig the differential end attached, not enough room to manuever the tranny out with it in, UNLESS you have a bolt in transmission crossmember, then its a breeze), the shifter(after taking the tranny mount you can drop the tranny down a little to get to the side of the shifter to take it off, then take the linkages off), the tranny mount, and it would be eaiser to to take the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing then slide out the tranny to the rear then nose dive out the front. Bellhousing is pretty straightforward at this point. As Rick said, do take note(or even pictures with a digi cam) for the shifter linkage mainly.  good luck, and when time comes we can walk you through it.

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And, as has been repeated many times on this forum, the AIM has great diagrams.

Larry

Transmission is removed, thanks for the tips. The rebuild kit is in and now waiting for warmer weather to put it back. First have to get new tunnel insulation in place. Also have to rivet in new clips as they are all gone.

Ok , I rebuilt the transmission over the winter, new bearings and syncros and sliders. Transmission is back in and the good news is that  I now have 3rd gear back. In the past I could never shift into 3rd gear.  I have a temporary eBay CPlus shifter in as the original went to Hurst for rebuild, but that takes 8 weeks.

Hopefully you replaced the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing/bushing and resurfaced the flywheel.  If you did jot do all suggested, the ticking is will be solved when you remove the transmission and accomplish all of the above.  Good luck. OH6A2009-07-25 18:18:43

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I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and resurfcd the flywheel.

Don't take this the wrong way, but what kind of clutch is it and which way did you install it? From what you wrote in, it sounds like you covered everything else. Vibration? That's gotta be something not balanced or misalligned. Could the end of the trans shaft be too long and pressing against the crank? When the flywheel was resurfaced, did they also check it for balance?
Good luck.

Finally solved the mystery of no 3rd gear. I adjusted the travel of the rod by two turns and now I have third gear.

Did you solve the ticking problem? Just curious.

I'm not sure if I solved the 'ticking' problem. It is intermittent. I am suspecting that it is the parking brake cable vibrating on the exhaust. It's one of those things on the 'to do list' still.

I don't know how I missed this one! 
Glad ya got it handled, tho.
One thing I would check, as far as the "ticking" noise....check to see that your distributor cap is fully seated on the distributor. Lot of times, when the trans is removed, the engine may hang down far enough for the dist. cap to bump/rub up against the firewall or wiper motor, knocking it a little off center. When you fire it up, the rotor will hit in the wrong places, and "tick" every revolution. Just a thought.


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Joel Adams
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Brudder Joel I wudda never thought of that. I mightta strained for it on a Auto Tranny but wudda overlooked it on a speeder.

Ah guess dats why ya makes da BIG $$$! You Da Man...

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Joel, do you work in the automotive business??

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[QUOTE=dskopp]Joel, do you work in the automotive business??[/QUOTE]

Whatever gave you that idea?
Actually, I'm a book-keeper in a whore-house....(can I say that here?)

Naw...really...I've been in da arotomobile repair business for....EVER.... I been doing trans-a-missions for aboot 30 years now, and tinker with the rest of it...


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I just put together a basket  job 1978 4 speed  road tested it and it seems the trans is noisy in all gears except 4th. Is this normal or?

No! A 4 speed that makes noise in all gears BUT 4th has a bad bearing, or a damaged countershaft and/or input shaft.
It really depends on what kind of noise we're talking about.
Grind-growl-howl-squeal-squeek-,etc.

The one exception to this would be the Muncie M-22...nicknamed the Rockcrusher for the noise it makes...


Welcome to C3VR!!!
Adams' Apple2010-01-06 21:15:50

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Joel Adams
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It's a howling noise, and is completely gone when I shift into 4th.

Well...that's not good!
That will be one of two things...neither of which is fun. You may have a bad rear bearing on the mainshaft, or....more likely, the needle/roller bearings(all 100 or so of them) inside the cluster gear are bad, which would also make the cluster shaft bad.
To explain, the cluster gear is hollow, and has a shaft that runs thru it, called the cluster shaft. To keep the shaft and gear from rubbing, and wearing, there are a series of needle bearings around the shaft, that roll against the cluster gear. These bearings are basically free-floating, and have to be inserted individually into the cluster gear, and then the gear installed into the trans case, then the cluster shaft is inserted thru the case and the cluster gear.
When these bearings, or the shaft itself wears(over time, or due to rust), it allows the main gears and the cluster gear to separate and not run where they should, which increases the clearance between the gears. This is what makes the noise. The rear bearing on the mainshaft, if worn, will cause the same noise, since that also allows too much clearance between the gear sets.
The reason the noise goes away in 4th gear is due to 4th gear being "direct drive", meaning it is a straight shot from engine to differential, with no gear reduction. This keeps any pressure off of the cluster, so there's no noise when in 4th.
If you have a noise like this in all gears, it could be the input(front) bearing, since it has pressure in all gears.
Sorry to say, but your noise isn't going to go away...the trans need repairs... You might be able to drive it like this for a long time, and not have any problems, BUT....the damage will get worse, and more parts will be damaged...

One other thought...if the gear surface of either the input shaft, or the cluster gear is damaged(teeth broken, severe rust, etc.), it could cause a noise in all gears but 4th, also. Gear damage like that, however, usually is more of a grinding, clunky noise. The trans is still in need of repair, either way, imo.
Adams' Apple2010-01-07 06:16:22

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